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We Never Expected That
Our journey towards Broome turned into one of those unforgettable events, where the best moments were completely unplanned. After leaving Muccan Station, we searched for a free camp near Shay Gap before curiosity led us down an unmarked track to an incredible collection of ancient rock art. We also discovered the peaceful Serenity Pool, spent a couple of nights camping beside Coonieena Creek, and even tried our luck prospecting—only to discover we’d been searching around old iron ore drill holes instead of gold. Sometimes the best stories come from the rookie mistakes! From there we made our way to the famous Eighty Mile Beach before arriving in Broome.
A stay at Waterbank revealed an unexpected paradise of crystal-clear coral pools teeming with marine life, followed by visits to the Courthouse Markets, Chinatown, Town Beach and, of course, the iconic Cable Beach at sunset. Join us as another chapter of our lap around Australia reminds us that it’s often the hidden places—and the unexpected discoveries—that become the highlights of the journey.
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Corella Feather Float

This afternoon I went fishing—not for dinner or for a trophy, but simply to see what lived beneath the surface. Armed with the smallest hook I could find, a barbless rig and a float made from a corella feather, I spent an hour ‘tiddler snatching’ in the Coongan River. It reminded me that no matter where you are in the world, there’s still a little boy inside who gets excited when a tiny fish appears beneath a homemade float.
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Pilbara Rail Roads……
Before leaving Tom Price, we needed to obtain a permit from Rio Tinto to travel on the Rail Access Roads that run alongside the iron ore railway through the Pilbara. After completing the required induction course, we set off through the spectacular Hamersley Ranges towards Millstream Chichester National Park, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of the famous Pilbara iron ore trains. Although Wayne managed to get himself told off for being on the wrong UHF channel during some road works, we eventually came across one of the enormous trains. Even standing still, it was an impressive sight. These trains can stretch for kilometres and haul thousands of tonnes of iron ore across the Pilbara.
Our journey then took us to the historic Millstream Homestead, where we explored the restored buildings and learned about the station’s fascinating past. One of the highlights was a remarkable painting created by an 11-year-old boy who lived there more than a century ago, capturing everyday life on the station. Despite some areas remaining closed following recent cyclone damage, we were able to enjoy the beautiful Cliff Walk and cool off at the spring-fed waters of Deep Reach Pool.
Along the way, we discovered ancient fig trees, abundant birdlife, and some of the stunning scenery that makes this part of Western Australia so special. After a relaxing couple of days, it was time to move on once again, heading deeper into Millstream Chichester National Park and on to a free camp near Mount Herbert and Python Pool. Join us as we continue our big lap of Australia, exploring the history, landscapes, and hidden gems of the Pilbara.
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Knowing When To Turn Back
While exploring the Pilbara and Karijini National Park, we spent a few days at Buddha’s free camp, met some regular feathered visitors, explored the spectacular Hamersley Gorge, and dealt with the aftermath of heavy rain and muddy roads. What started as a simple drive soon turned into a lesson about travelling remote Australia. After battling muddy conditions, cleaning kilograms of mud from the D-Max, and discovering our wheels were badly out of balance, we set off to revisit some of Karijini’s stunning lookouts.
Before leaving Tom Price, Wayne decided to tackle Mount Nameless, one of Western Australia’s highest 4WD tracks. The climb started well, but sometimes experience means recognising when a track is beyond your comfort zone. Knowing when to turn back can be just as important as reaching the top. Join us as we continue our budget-friendly lap of Australia, sharing the highs, the challenges, and the lessons we learn along the way.
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What a mess!

This gave me something to do this afternoon. Leaving Hamersley Gorge turned out to be more of an adventure than we expected.
It had rained overnight, and by morning the road was a thick, slippery mixture of sand, mud and red dirt. To be honest, I’m surprised it wasn’t closed. In fact, by the time I wrote this, it had been.
It was probably the most challenging driving I’ve ever done while towing. The trick was finding the balance between carrying enough speed to avoid getting bogged and slowing down enough to keep the rig pointing in the right direction. Too slow and you’d sink in. Too fast and you’d be sliding sideways across the track.
By the time we reached bitumen, the D-Max and Mobi looked like they’d been dipped in red concrete. What looks like dust in the photo is actually a sticky mix of mud, sand and dirt that sets rock hard once it dries. It gets into every nook and cranny, and if you leave it too long, it can take some serious effort to remove.
There was only one thing on my mind when we finally stopped: finding somewhere to wash all that Pilbara cement off before it became a permanent feature.
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Entering The Pilbara
Join us as we continue our Big Lap of Australia through the spectacular Pilbara region of Western Australia. After restocking in Newman, we discover some incredible free camps, including Albert Tognolini Rest Area overlooking Munjina Gorge.
As we travel the red dirt roads around Karijini National Park, we encounter breathtaking scenery, unexpected rain, water challenges and one of Australia’s most disturbing ghost towns. Wittenoom was once a thriving asbestos mining town.
Today it is abandoned after thousands of asbestos-related illnesses led to its closure and removal from official maps. Come along as we explore the Pilbara on a budget, share free camping locations, caravan life realities and the unforgettable places we discover along the way.
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Where Did The Water Go?
We leave the ghost town of Big Bell and head north to what should have been a beautiful free camp at Bilyuin Pool on the Murchison River. Instead, we’re shocked by what we find.
Once described as a permanent waterhole popular for swimming, canoeing and wildlife watching, Bilyuin Pool is now completely dry. Local stories point to a nearby mining bore lowering the water table and changing this once-thriving oasis forever.
Along the way we discover a mysterious abandoned house near Cue, search for lost gear in the bush, bake campfire treats, spot Whistling Kites and continue our journey north chasing warmer weather.
As the rain follows us, we cross the Tropic of Capricorn and finally find sunshine again near Marble Bar.
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A Campfire Under the Tropic Moon
We woke to the sound of rain on the roof this morning and quickly came to the conclusion that we hadn’t travelled far enough north to leave the winter weather behind.
With no sign of the rain easing, we packed up camp in the wet. Tomorrow morning we’ll need to make sure the awnings and outdoor mat get a chance to dry out before we move on. It’s all part of life on the road.
After topping up the fuel tanks, we pointed the rig towards the Pilbara and continued our journey north. By this afternoon we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn — a milestone that felt significant. Surely crossing into the tropics guarantees a little sunshine and warmth to ease these ageing bones!

Tonight we’re camped at a remote free camp, miles from anywhere. As darkness settled in, a full moon rose above the landscape, bathing everything in a soft silver glow. We now find ourselves sitting beside a crackling campfire, enjoying the peace and solitude that these outback camps offer.
Well, mostly peace and solitude.
Not far from camp, the eerie sound of dingoes howling drifts through the night air. It’s one of those uniquely Australian moments that reminds us just how far we’ve travelled from the suburbs and how fortunate we are to be experiencing this incredible country.
For now, we’ll sit back, enjoy the fire, listen to the dingoes, and hope that tomorrow brings the sunshine we’re chasing.
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Big Bell & Other Ghosts
After five days back in Perth catching up with the grandkids and taking care of business, we’re finally back on the road and heading north once again! This time we’re making a run through Western Australia’s Wheatbelt, escaping the mouse invasion and chasing new adventures.
Our journey takes us to the historic gold mining town of Mount Magnet, a place with a few memories for us. Nearly twenty years ago we got ourselves completely lost out here after taking the famous Tourist Route. This time we’re older, wiser, and hopefully better prepared!
Along the way we explore Poverty Flats, the old miner’s cottage at Boogardie, take in the view from Warramboo Hill, visit the moving gravesite of a mother and child from the 1908 typhoid outbreak, discover ancient rock formations and caves, wander through the forgotten townsite of Lennonville, and finish the day exploring the fascinating Big Bell ghost town near Cue.
History, gold rush stories, outback landscapes, abandoned places and maybe even a bit of prospecting ahead… and Wayne might have found a pending lease nearby!
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Outback Prospecting Comes With Surprises
Just behind where we’re camped happens to be a pending lease area with some interesting geology, so I decided to head out and have a swing for a couple of hours. Unfortunately, the morning turned into a collection exercise for lead shot and bits of rusting tin rather than treasure.
As I was walking back to the car, I was only a couple of feet away from stepping on one of these.

Sourced from internet. A ringed brown snake (Pseudonaja modesta). Not exactly the sort of find I’d been hoping for. This species is a venomous elapid native to inland Australia and is found across a broad stretch of the country, from western New South Wales and Queensland through to Western Australia.









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